A Week in Sri Lanka

Overview

The biggest mistake I made during my time in Sri Lanka is that I was not there long enough. One of the five places that I visited on my way out to Australia, the week I spent in the country was one of my favourites. From the incredibly friendly locals, to the ease at which you can get around cheaply - Sri Lanka really is the jewel of Asia.

I was there during January, which is one of the months that, weather wise, it is advised to visit. Within a short amount of time I was able to cram in some of the nation’s highlights, however I am already planning a return trip for a longer stint.

ON ARRIVAL

Colombo airport is a normal sized but fairly busy airport, I arrived early in the morning and arranged a car to take me to Kandy. This two and a half hour journey took me out of the city and into the hills, with some stunning views along the way. Private drivers in Sri Lanka are very common and extremely reasonable, many visitors will arrange for a driver to be with them for their whole trip taking them across the country. This is an easy way to traverse the island, and not as decadent as it sounds.

accommodation

Although I was only in Sri Lanka for a short time, I was able to visit several amazing spots and stay at some lovely places along the way. All my bookings were done through booking.com, they make things easy for you by giving you an option on their app to have the address in the local language - something I use often.

Kandy City Stay, Kandy

Situated just outside the main area of Kandy, this hotel was a convenient place to stay whilst visiting the city and getting my bearings ahead of the trip to Ella. With a restaurant and rooftop area, the accommodation is isn’t luxe and isn’t basic, it’s somewhere in between. A long and tall building, with a lift that only went some of the way up it, travelling with a heavy suitcase wasn’t ideal but I made it work. The team there were also kind enough to let me use a shower when I arrived ahead of check in, as well as helping me book a trip for one of the days I was in the area. About 20mins walk to Kandy centre, it was a great introduction to my time in Sri Lanka. I stayed in room 704 which had great views.

Rowinrich Cottages, Ella

High in the hills of the stunning town of Ella, this place has a minimalist finish to it which fits perfectly with the chilled vibes of the surroundings. Sitting on the balcony listening to the wildlife and taking in the sweeping views of Ella Rock is a strong selling point for Rowinrich. Be warned, the accommodation comes with a steep incline, and a tip for you, if you’re coming from the Railway Station there is a short cut to the hotel. Don’t do what I did and push your case all the way up…

Bimal Villa, Bentota 

This family run place in Bentota is calm, peaceful and lovely to stay in. The breakfast was incredible and a real slice of Sri Lanka, location wise Bimal Villa is situated away from the large resorts but still very close to the beach and eating establishments. I was only here for one night, but the team were so lovely and the rooms were basic but very clean.

co45 Studio, Colombo

This place is unique in that it’s an operating art gallery and family home, run by a local artist. The rooms available are often reserved for a guest artist in residence, however when not being used for this purpose are open for guests to stay in. With a rustic, arty decor, the room was quirky and unlike any I'd stayed in before. Whilst slightly out of the key tourist areas of Colombo, I had a few good walks during my stay.

unmissable

Kandy to Ella Train

This was at the top of my list when I was visiting Sri Lanka. The iconic and famous train, often cited as the best train ride in the world, travels through epic tea plantations to 1,898m above sea level showcasing rural life and epic vistas. The brilliant blue trains are well known for their ‘open door policy’ which let tourists and locals physically hang out of the trains touching the landscape as it sweeps by. I had pre booked by ticket in advance, there is a crazy system where you go through a travel agent in advance who works to secure you a ticket when the booking opens for your required date. Whilst there is mark up on this price, in reality it’s minimal. I went with Visit Sri Lanka Tours, which though looking a bit underwhelming came through for me. I put my booking request in over a month before travel, looking to secure a second class seat reservation. They contacted me soon after to say that only a reserved seat in 3rd class was available. I picked up my ticket from Kandy train station the day before departure (because I am a worrier and hate rushing!) which was all above board. Whilst I was concerned 3rd class might be crammed I was in the reserved section meaning I had a great seat and was able to move around, hanging out the door for almost all of the last few hours as we came into Ella - which is arguably the best part. I also travelled with a large suitcase, which I was able to leave in front of a locked doorway. This trip is an unmissable experience for anyone visiting and whilst seven hours on a train may feel like a long time (you can break it up along the way if you have the time) I simply adored it and won’t ever forget it.

Top tip: Don’t be put off by the way securing tickets works, you pay up front but get a refund if the travel agents don’t secure your tickets. I tried through several operators and only one came through, the other refunded me

Nine Arch Bridge, Ella

Another Instagram famous spot, the striking Nine Arch Bridge stands out against the lush green of the countryside. Built during the colonial times, trains go over it twice a day. Easily accessible from town, the site is swarmed with people trying to get their Insta-selfie, however is well worth the visit

Top tip: I got lost on my way to the bridge as I didn’t follow the rail tracks from town - a mistake. So if you’re going then use the train tracks like everyone else.

Hiking Little Adam’s Peak, Ella

A fairly achievable hike from Ella Town, head up to Little Adam’s Peak for a trip through tea plantations and a view of the imposing Ella Rock (another hike you can do, but much harder and longer). A must do if you’re in the area.

Top tip: Do this around early morning or before dusk when it’s cooler, and take water with you

CrossFit Ceylon

Staying fit on the road can be a challenge, however where I could I tried to fit in workouts. One such place was in Colombo where I was able to drop into a local CrossFit gym for a WOD.  Having done about six months of CrossFit before setting off meant that I was easily able to pick up the workout and they were happy for me to drop in. The gym itself was very welcoming, and like most, have a drop in price. There were showers and all the equipment needed for a solid workout - also the classes were taught in English, which whilst it made me feel guilty, I was grateful for.

Top tip: Get in touch with gyms a day or two before you land in town so understand the best time to go that suits your schedule

top tips

• Expenses in Sri Lanka are minimal, and your money will go far. Everything is very much cash based so bear that in mind, however there are plenty of reputable banks and ATMs

• You can get a lot out of the country if you plan well. I set myself clear experiences I wanted to do and made sure that I worked travel and accommodation around them

• Make some time to spend a day or two at one of the amazing beaches Sri Lanka has

• Try a Sri Lankan breakfast, lots of small dishes with rice, eggs and pancakes

• Spend as little time in Colombo as you can, I ended my trip there and really didn’t like it compared to the rest of the country, plus there are lots of men that bother you on the street offering to take you to amazing places - most of these are cons

Summary

To say I enjoyed Sri Lanka would be an understatement. The country is simply one of the places you have to visit in your lifetime, with so much to offer and people who are just too kind. Like anywhere you have to be on your guard, especially in its capital, however it is a magical destination with some of the world’s best travel experiences. If you’re thinking about it, don’t, just go.